Koko Head Crater...and a word to the wise

When friends come to visit, it gives me the excuse to go out and explore places that I haven't been to yet.  I have a couple friends visiting this week and on Saturday morning we decided to hike up Koko Head Crater.  Only two words really encapsulate the Koko Head hike on the East side of O'ahu...holy crap!  Koko Crater is a cinder cone remaining from the last active volcano that occurred on O'ahu approximately 10,000 years ago. This crater is the tallest tuff ring in Hawaii, measuring 1,207 feet in height. The slopes of the crater drop steeply into the Molokai Channel, an area which lacks protection from any offshore reefs, causing very turbulent seas in this area.

View from the Bottom

If you're looking for a nice, easygoing hike then stay away from Koko Head.  The good news is that the entire trail is a staircase.  Originally Koko Head was used as a radar stand for the military during WWII.  In order to get supplies up to the mountain, they used a tram that ran on railroad tracks.  The tracks are still there and that's what you use to get up.  The bad news is that it is a straight vertical climb.  It looks really steep from the bottom, but I had no idea how difficult the hike would be until I got about 1/4 the way up.  It's REALLY steep!  I am in fairly good shape and yet my calves and my ass have been killing me for 2 days.

View from Halfway Up

In my defense, however, I did ride my bike for an hour a half (25 miles) that morning so I had already had a pretty good workout.  So the "word to the wise" is that you should not workout prior to hiking Koko Head.  The trail itself was not too crowded, but there were a good 50 people on the trail at any one time.  No one got in each other's way, though, and everyone was taking periodic breaks along the way.  We must have stopped 5 or 6 times ourselves just to catch our breath.

View from the top

Prior to going on the hike, I had heard from some people that the view from the top of Koko Head is nice, but not really worth the pain of climbing up.  I disagree.  Yes, Koko Head is a bitch to climb.  However, the view from the top is pretty amazing.  I could sit up there all day and just stare out onto Hawaii Kai and the ocean.  Being at the top, especially after working so hard to get there, makes the view all the more amazing.  So overall if you're looking for a challenging workout and you're willing to put up with the subsequent pain, then Koko Head is a really gorgeous hike that offers amazing views and good story.

A long way to get down...

Improvement

So yesterday was the big day.  The Marine Corps Base Hawaii Sprint Triathlon.  In the days following the Lanikai Triathlon, I vowed to take this one seriously and drastically improve my time.  So I actually trained all the way until race day this time around. I swam somewhere around 2-3 times/week and ran 3-4 times/week and biked to work everyday and then did one long ride per week.  It wasn't the most grueling training schedule ever, but it was an improvement over last time.  Then Friday and Saturday before race day, I carbo-loaded by eating lots of bread, pasta, pancakes, and fruit.  Then my co-worker and I went out for a massive pasta dinner at Buca di Beppo (map) on Saturday night and stuffed our faces with some delicious food.

Sunday morning rolled around and I felt good.  I felt prepared and ready to do well, which was a much better feeling than the one I had last time.  There was just one problem: the weather.  We pulled onto the military base and there was heavy cloud cover, strong wind, and it was cold (Hawaii cold...so around 68-70 degrees).  At least it wasn't raining...yet.  It looked like most people were setting up their transition stations in sweatshirts and all I could think about was how cold that water was going to be.

As 7:00am rolled around (start time), everyone was standing on the edge of the water ready to go when the gun went off.  There was a mad dash in the water and while most people were probably focused on getting to the first marker, I was just thankful that the water was really warm.  The swim is still my weakest event, but I found that I was much stronger this time.  Of course, the waves were incredibly choppy because of the strong wind so it made it that much tougher to plow through the water.  Then about halfway through the swim, it started to downpour.  Hard.  The rain reduced visibility to zero, the waves were knocking people all over the place and no one was going straight.  I'm shocked there is still water in Kaneohe Bay b/c I thought I swallowed it all.  Nonetheless, I got out of the water and beat my former swim time by about one and a half to two minutes.

It was still raining as I got on the bike and started to pedal.  Part of the bike course was on the runway and there were massive gusts of 20 mph wind coming right at our face.  I was pedaling as hard as I could but wasn't going anywhere!  Everyone was struggling to fight the wind apparently because at the end of the race that's all people were talking about.  The best part of the bike portion was that I passed my co-worker about 10 minutes into it and never gave back the lead.

Now, I haven't made the plunge to get clip-in bike shoes so I wore sneakers.  And because of all the rain, they were SOAKED.  The water from the tires splashed up and the rain poured down.  So as I took my first steps in the run, not only did my legs feel like bricks from all the pedaling, but the water in my shoes and socks made it feel like there were weights in my shoes.  The running course was nice, though.  For the most part it was flat except for one really steep hill that was just a nightmare.  At one point in the run, though, I looked back to see if my co-worker was closing in.  I saw someone maybe 80 yards behind me who had the same shirt on and the same type of dark shorts and was convinced he was catching up.  So I took off running harder to try to keep my lead.  In the end, however, it wasn't my co-worker...because it turns out I beat him by 7 minutes.

Ultimately, I did not win my age group.  However, I improved my time by 13 minutes and finished close to my goal of 1:10:00.  I didn't beat my goal, but I was happy with my improvement.  Next comes the Tinman.

Sandbar Kaneohe

Kāneʻohe Bay is the largest sheltered body of water in the main Hawaiian Islands. This reef-dominated bay constitutes a significant scenic and recreational feature along the windward (northeast) coast of the Island of Oʻahu. The Bay is approximately 8 mi long and 2.7 mi broad, with a mouth opening of about 4.6 mi and maximum depth of 40 ft in the dredged channel. Features unique in the main Hawaiian Islands include one of only two barrier reefs (the other being the 27 mile barrier reef of Molokaʻi island) and extensive development of shoaling coral reefs within a large lagoon.

Prior to last weekend I had never actually been to the bay.  I've played golf over near Kaneohe and the Valley of the Temples is over there, but I had heard the bay is gorgeous.  Anyway, last week the group of people I met at the pro bowl decided to go sailing and invited me to tag along.  They have a 43-foot sailboat that they take out every once in a while and anchor it out at the sandbar in the middle of the bay.  The sandbar is also something I had heard about but had never seen.  

The Kaneohe Sandbar, also known as Ahu o Laka, is a popular picnicking spot among local Oahu residents, particularly among those who have a boat or access to a boat or kayak. It’s the only sandbar of this kind in Hawaii. During low tide, it emerges and forms a shallow and temporary land. During high tide, the water is about hip-deep and deeper towards the edges of the sandbar. People come here to picnic, swim, snorkel, dive, play ball games, or to just relax.  The water is calm and clear and the views are amazing. While you're out on the water you can see the entire Kaneohe Bay from an ocean vantage point, the Koolau Mountains and the small offshore islands of Chinaman’s Hat, Coconut Island and Kekepa (Turtleback Island).

So while we were out there, we had snacks and booze and sun.  What more could you possibly ask for?  We also threw the football and frisbee around just to entertain ourselves.  The real fun came at the end of the day, though.  I suppose everyone just got so caught up in the fun that no one actually seemed to notice the tide change.  Check the tide table before heading out to the sandbar so you know in advance if it’s high or low tide. The activities that you can do on the sandbar vary slightly during these different ocean conditions. You can take out your chairs and put them on the sandbar only during low tide, for example.  Well, your boat can also get stuck in the sand if the tide goes from high to low and you're not paying attention.  This happened to us.  To make a long story short, everyone had to get off the boat and push it out of the sand.  Initially that wasn't enough.  We had to put the sails up, start the motor, and THEN push.  It was all pretty hilarious.  It looked like a Chinese fire drill with about 8 people jumping on and off the boat to get this thing un-stuck.

Overall, it was a fun day.  We are actually going back this weekend!

Week 1 - Second Triathlon Training

As I mentioned before, I am doing another sprint triathlon on May 22.  This one is on the marine corps base in Kaneohe on the East side of O'ahu.  It's the same distance as the Lanikai Triathlon - 500 meter swim, 12 mile bike, 3.1 mile run.  Since my Lanikai Sprint Triathlon results were less than inspiring, I vowed to get serious for this one.  So here is the schedule of my first week of training:

Monday, April 18 - Run 45 minutes (5 mi) + Swim 30 minutes
Tuesday, April 19 - Off
Wednesday, April 20 - Run 45 minutes (5 mi) + Swim 30 minutes
Thursday, April 21 - Off
Friday, April 22 - Bike 40 minutes (13 mi) + Swim 50 minutes
Saturday, April 23 - Off
Sunday, April 24 - Run 40 minutes (6 mi)

Well that didn't take long...

I said I hate losing.  More than anything I hate that nagging feeling that I could have done more or could have done better.  Maybe it's my ego.  Maybe my narcissistic type A personality.  I don't know.  Whatever it is, though, it led me to sign up for another triathlon.  Two, actually.  The first is another sprint triathlon on the marine corps base in Kaneohe on the East side of O'ahu.  The other is the Tinman Olympic distance triathlon in Honolulu.

I signed up for two triathlons for a few reasons.  First, I decided to do another sprint distance to prove that my crappy time in the lanikai sprint triathlon was a fluke.  I am out to beat my time (and my friend who also did the lanikai triathlon this past weekend).  Second, triathlons are a lot of fun.  They're not like marathons or bike races where you just do the same thing for a couple hours.  No, triathlons work your whole body and mix things up to the point so you can't just rely on muscle memory.  So I actually did enjoy myself.  Third, I signed up for the Olympic distance to prove that I can do "real" triathlons and I can cross triathlons off my "to do" list without any harassing conversations!

This time, I'm taking no prisoners, though.  I'm going to train seriously this time with no excuses.

Lanikai Triathlon

Sunday, April 17 was the 10th annual Lanikai Triathlon.  I competed in it.  Though, I suppose it's fair to say that what I did was not so much "competing" as it was "participating."  I didn't exactly give anyone a scare in terms of my competitive prowess.  Nonetheless, it was a fun time and I'm glad I did it.  There were about 360 people in the race and it was really well organized.  There was plenty of space for all the participants in the transition area and everyone was really nice and energetic.  The volunteers were amazing and helpful, so it was overall a great experience.

Setting up at 4:30am

You may notice that on the right side of my blog, I have checked off my "goals" list that I competed in a triathlon.  I discussed with someone yesterday, however, that I shouldn't be able to say I did a "real" triathlon because it was only a sprint triathlon.  Now, my achy legs and shoulders take exception to this remark, but I began to think: this person had a point.  On one hand, sure, I worked out for an hour and a half and I did, in fact, do three events - swim, bike, and run in succession.  On the other hand, it was a short distance and nowhere near the length of an Olympic distance.  So can I really mislead people by suggesting that I will be the next Ironman?

Getting Free Stuff

So my answer to the charge is first, feel free to compete in your own triathlon and then give me a call.  But my competitive nature really kicked in this weekend.  I showed up at 4:30am to set up my transition station and realized that I was grossly unprepared.  I mean sure, I trained for the first three weeks, but then everything went to shit.  I looked around and there were some seriously competitive people there.  Even then I figured I was athletic enough to hang in there.  Not so much.  At the end of the day, I felt like I accomplished something, but not what I wanted to accomplish; I wanted to be competitive.  I wanted the triathlon to be the culmination of months of hard work, commitment, and discipline.  I wanted to cross the finish line gasping for air because I pushed myself.  I didn't do that on Sunday.

Finish Line

So that raises the question: do I want to do another one?  I did have fun this weekend.  It was definitely a challenge and they gave out free stuff at the end! Who doesn't like free stuff?  Jamba Juice smoothie?  I'll have 6, please.  I think I do want to do another one.  The only concern I have, of course, is my ability to train for the next few months.  I am going to have the same challenges I had this time: visitors coming to Hawaii and going on a week-long golf trip with a bunch of old men who drink more in one sitting than I can usually drink in a weekend, and a week-long trip to Chicago.  At what point would I be able to sufficiently train so that I can be competitive the next time around.  I refuse to do another triathlon unless I can devote my full energy to the training.

For now, I am happy to say that I have done a Sprint Triathlon and I look forward to the next.

Ko'olau Golf Course

Five day work weeks and two day weekends are a cruel joke.  How can I possibly be expected to fully relax and enjoy Hawaii when I'm slaving away?  Last week was one such week.  No holiday.  No furlough.  Just a two day weekend.  Since my precious time was so limited, I had to pack in the activities.  Saturday I played golf at what Golf Digest in 2007 called the "toughest in the nation."  In 2010, it was merely the Third Most Diabolical.

Here's the review from ESPN: "With parts of the course receiving 130 inches of rain a year, this is target golf at its soggiest. You won't need a caddie so much as a backcountry guide. The roughs are tropical rain forests, the hazards mostly uncharted ravines filled with jungle and undiscovered reptilian life forms. Typical of the course's unsubtle presentation, the 474-yard, par-4 18th features two long forced carries over canyons plus a 330-yard bunker off the tee and a 220-yard bunker to the green. Legend has it that the course record was once 63 … lost balls. Ko'olau used to have a Slope Rating of 162, even though the maximum possible is 155."

I actually didn't find it all that difficult.  Don't get me wrong, I didn't shoot an 80 or anything, but I also shot under 100.  To me, I thought Luana Hills was much more difficult.  The one thing Ko'olau Golf course has that no other course I've played has is perfect conditions.  The sand traps were in immaculate shape.  The greens had no divots, holes, ball marks, or different colored sod.  The fairways had virtually no divot marks and even the tee boxes were in great shape.  On top of that, the course is at the bottom of the Ko'olau Mountain Range so there are sweeping vistas all around and ocean views on at least 4 holes.  It was by far the most beautiful course I have ever seen.  Even the club house and restaurant are picture perfect.  You enter the club house via a grand, carpeted staircase with a waterfall fountain in the middle and plants and flowers along the side.

From the 15th Tee Box

In terms of difficulty, you have to play VERY conservatively.  I think what saved me was playing for bogey.  The men's tees are at 6500 yards while the tournament tees are at 7400.  It's a long, narrow course with no forgiveness.  If you can play straight, though, you'll be all right. 

As I was standing on the 15th tee box, I had another "Hawaii Moment" where I realized how awesome this place is and how fortunate I am to have lived here for a brief period of time.  I also got a sense of real happiness when I realized that I will be here for a year instead of two.  There are not many things better than being able to play golf every weekend and enjoy 80 degree weather year 'round.  But I also have other things I am anxious to do in my life/career so this was the perfect opportunity to enjoy Hawaii on a temporary basis, take advantage of the weather and cheap resident-fees on golfing and then move on.  Saturday was the perfect epiphany.

Packet Pick-up

Sunday is the Lanikai Sprint Triathlon.  The race organizers have been sending emails all week telling participants where they can pick up their packets, what to bring, what to expect, etc.  The fact that the race is actually happening didn't sink in until this week.  I went to the website, saw the race map, and realized that I hate doing things half-assed.  I mean, if you're going to compete in something, why not race to win?  I never understood or appreciated the saying "everyone's a winner."  Everyone is not a winner.  Vince Lombardi once said, "if it didn't matter who won, then why keep score?"

Now, I am not saying there is no point in doing something if you can't win.  That being said, the goal should always be to try to win. Unfortunately, my training went to hell in a handbasket and being competitive is probably out of the question.  That doesn't mean I'm not going to try like hell to still place as high as I can.  I am still looking forward to the race (and the post-race free stuff).

So anyway, today and tomorrow is the packet pick-up for the race.  Then the race begins at 6:15am on Sunday morning.  Last year's winner finished in just under an hour and the last place person took about two hours.  So I imagine I'll finish somewhere around 1 hour and 15-20 minutes.  Then afterwards Jamba Juice sponsors post-race refreshments.

Here is the map of the race (500m swim, 20k bike, and 5k run);

Next Scuba Trip

Now that I'm scuba certified (and leaving Hawaii in September), I figured I should take advantage of it.  Lucky for me, today's LivingSocial deal was 50% a charted boat scuba diving tour.  For certified divers, you get a two-tank dive for $59 (normally $125).

I was explaining scuba diving to someone the other day and I think the best way to describe it is like swimming through an aquarium.  You're in a zero gravity environment just floating around looking at cool stuff that no one else gets to really see.  I'm looking forward to the boat dive because I think that's going to be the best way to dive.  During the training course we did shore dives where you put your gear on at the car and walk across the beach into the water.  That just seems particularly inconvenient and unnecessarily time-consuming.  I think I am going to prefer just entering the water from the boat.  Then after you're finished with one tank, come up to the boat, have a snack, and then go down with the second tank.  You can also avoid all the sand and crap that gets stuck on you as you cross the beach.  Plus, who doesn't enjoy being out on a boat in the middle of the ocean just hanging out in gorgeous weather?

Bluewater Grill

I am obsessed with deals and airline miles.  Last week, I discovered that you can make reservations at various restaurants through United.com and earn 60 miles just for doing so.  Then I discovered that Bluewater Grill (in Hawaii Kai - 377 Keahole St, Honolulu, HI 96825 - map here) was one such place.  It just so happened that I also had a Groupon for Bluewater Grill where I got 50% off my bill.  Put those two things together and it is a recipe for making me a very happy person.

So we went to Bluewater Grill for dinner and found the atmosphere to be gorgeous.  It's right on Kuapa Pond with Koko Head in the background.  There is outdoor seating and live music every night.  The music is quiet and mellow and is the perfect live music to listen to during dinner while eating right on the water.  The restaurant itself is a relative newcomer to the restaurant scene in Hawaii Kai and is right next to a very established and popular "Roy's."  However, if it keeps promoting itself with things like Groupon, I expect it to do very well.  What may also save them from the fate of others who essentially try to compete with Roy's is that they are open for lunch.  The food was delicious and reasonably priced.  Actually, they overcooked one of our fish, making it almost chewy, but the  appetizers and the other fish were amazing.  They also have a decent happy how where beers are $3.  

 The menu is ambitious and described as "global island." There was some discussion at the table as to what exactly that means; are the dishes and ingredients specific to islands or does it refer to dishes with "global" inspiration prepared in an island-style? We didn't come up with an answer.  The waiter we had was very pleasant, knew the menu well, and was very attentive.  Overall it was a great experience with a perfect ambience for dinner.  If you're in Hawaii Kai, or looking for some good seafood on the East side of the island, give this place a try.

Byodo-In Temple

After seeing the sunrise at the Makapu'u Lighthouse on Saturday morning, we went over to Kailua and got breakfast at Cinnamon's again.  Again, it didn't disappoint.  This time was even better, though, because we didn't wait forever.  In fact, we didn't wait at all.  We got there at about 8:30am and were seated right away.  Since we had already been awake from more than 4 hours and none of us had eaten anything yet, we feasted like Kings and Queens.  We ordered the red velvet pancakes (of course), eggs benedict, the baja breakfast, and eggs and bacon.  I am also pretty sure we finished our own pot of coffee since we were all exhausted.  After breakfast, we spent a few hours lounging around and snorkeling at Lanikai where the sand feels like flour.

See what I mean? They tease you with pictures like this

After spending some time at the beach, though, we decided to venture over to the over-hyped Valley of the Temples. Valley of the Temples Memorial Park is a memorial park located on the Windward (eastern) side of the Hawaiian island of Oʻahu. It is a vast area of lush, rolling green hills at the foot of the Koʻolau mountains, overlooking the sleepy town of Kāneʻohe. Thousands of Buddhist, Shinto, Protestant and Catholic residents of Hawaiʻi are buried in this memorial park.

In guide books, this place is described as a peaceful spot located off the beaten path.  To some extent, that's an accurate description.  The Valley of the Temples is located far from Waikiki and other tourist hot spots, but the famous Byodo-In Temple has become even more popular among tourists ever since it was featured in an episode of ABC's television show LOST. The temple was established on June 7, 1968, to commemorate the 100 year anniversary of the first Japanese immigrants to Hawaii. The temple is built entirely without nails. It is a scale replica of a temple in Uji, Japan, that was constructed over 950 years ago. The Byodo-In Temple is a non-denominational Buddhist temple which welcomes people of all faiths to worship, meditate or simply appreciate its beauty. The temple grounds are often used for wedding ceremonies for Hawaiians or visitors from Japan.

Inside the Temple.  You can light an incense at his feet

I wanted to visit this place ever since I saw a picture and found out it was constructed entirely without nails.  I thought that was pretty cool.  It also looked huge from the pictures and also appeared to be located in a secluded area of the mountains that might require even a little hiking.  Instead, it's right next to a big parking lot where there are a few tour buses and a little shack that charges $3 to walk on the grounds.  Don't get me wrong, the grounds of the temple are gorgeous.  But there is only one small room that visitors may enter (and can light an incense for prayer if you want).  There is also a giant bell that visitors are told to ring prior to entering as an appreciation for the gods.  Basically, this turns into everyone standing around in a line waiting to take pictures.

From the back

As you can probably tell from my tone, I think this place is overrated.  That being said, you should probably go.  I hate to say it, but it's pretty cool, the grounds are pretty, and it's only $3.  It's an area of O'ahu that not many people venture to and if you're in Kailua/Lanikai, it's only about a 10-12 minute drive away.  So go ahead and take some pictures and then just tell everyone back home that some Japanese monks invited you to their holy temple to pray with them (or something else interesting and creative).

Makapu'u and Sunrise

One of the hardest things to get used to after leaving law school is entering the work force.  Sure, you don't have homework and finals anymore, but you also have to be somewhere for 8+ hours a day, everyday.  You don't get to take multiple hour-long breaks whenever you want.  You don't get to skip work just because your boss is boring and the case you're working on won't be on the final.  Drinking until 3am on a Wednesday is no longer as socially appropriate as it used to be.  And you have to wake up early...every weekday morning.  You also can't stroll into work in your sweats for that 1pm meeting.  Nope, this is the real world.

Well, just because I'm used to waking up with the sun now doesn't mean that I was prepared for our 4am wake up call this Saturday morning.  While my roommates were undoubtedly still awake and drunk, I was waking up to go for a sunrise hike to the Makapu'u Lighthouse.  Makapuʻu Lighthouse is a 46-foot-tall, active United States Coast Guard lighthouse established in 1909.  Makapuʻu is the extreme eastern end of the Island of Oʻahu in the Hawaiian Islands, comprising the remnant of a ridge that rises 647 feet above the sea. The cliff at Makapuʻu Point forms the eastern tip and is the site of a prominent lighthouse. The place name of this area, meaning "bulging eye" in Hawaiian, is thought to derive from the name of an image said to have been located in a cave here called Keanaokeakuapōloli. You'll remember that the last time I hiked the Makapu'u trail, I quit after doing the Dragon's Nostril's hike because I didn't have water and felt like I was going to die.  This time, I am pretty sure I was still asleep when I made it to the lighthouse.

4am was well worth the view

I did, however, discover that driving in Honolulu is not nearly as dreadful when people aren't on the road, which, at 4:30am, they are not.  So we woke up, drove over to Makapu'u on the Windward side of the island...past Hawaii Kai and Hanauma Bay and Halona Blowhole.  When we got there the parking lot was still closed (it doesn't open until 7am).  So we parked up the street at the scenic point just beyond the parking lot and walked down.  The trail to Makapu'u Lighthouse is full paved and only takes about 20-25 minutes to reach the top, so it is VERY easy.  It's more of an uphill walk than a hike.  Nonetheless, we got to the top and watched the sunrise.  If you're looking for a cool story and some very pretty scenery, I definitely recommend finding the energy to wake up that early.  The view at sunrise from Makapu'u is regularly called a Hawaii "best bet" in all the magazines and guide books.

Sunrise at Makapu'u

Just take H-1 East and follow it all the way around the coast (you never have to turn).  The entrance to Makapu'u is across from the Hawaii Kai golf course.

View of the Other Side

Cinnamon's Restaurant

Yes, I eat a lot.  However, this time I had an excuse to try a new restaurant...my friends are visiting from out of town.  On Saturday we decided to spend the day in Kailua/Lanikai hanging out on the beach and doing the Lanikai pillbox hike.  Before we got to the beach and pillbox hike, however, we stopped at Cinnamon's in Kailua (315 Uluniu Street, Kailua, HI 96734 - map here).  There is ample meter parking around.

You've heard about those "Mom & Pop" places? hole in the wall? gem of a find? Well, all of those are true in describing Cinnamon's. Friendly, outrageously good food, and so reasonably priced are also true attributes this humble, unassuming, family owned restaurant offers to their many loyal customers.  I had previously looked at their menu online and tried to go here once before, but there was a 45 minute wait and my guest didn't want to stand around that long.  This time, I was determined to go.  As a teaser, you can check out their menu here.  Everything on the menu looks amazing!

So this Saturday we got there around 10:45am.  We thought we'd go for a nice brunch before taking a hike and lounging on the beach.  We showed up and were greeted with a 45 minute wait again.  Undeterred, though, we decided to put our names down and walk around the town for a little while.  When we got back 45 minutes later, we were told that our group of 3 would be next.  At least four or five other groups went before we did (all the while being assured by the hostess that we would be next).  It actually got to a point that we were convinced they were seating people who arrived after we originally did.  Once we were finally seated after about an hour wait, things got better.

Red Velvet Pancakes

To apologize for our delay, they brought us out two fresh cinnamon rolls - macademia cinnamon roll and their signature cinnamon roll - and a plate of DELICIOUS red velvet pancakes covered in white chocolate sauce...all for free.  That put us in a much better mood!  It was clear they were sorry we had to wait forever, but also they clearly want their customers to enjoy themselves.  Together, we ordered the Hawaiian Omelette, Breakfast Meat and Eggs, and the Kalua Pig Eggs Benedict.  I almost want to recommend eating a small snack before going to this place because the wait for food was somewhat long.  It wasn't terrible, but if you're starving then it would be brutal.  Fortunately for us, we had just eaten delicious red velvet pancakes and cinnamon rolls, so we were happy.  Once the food arrived, everything was unbelievable.

I highly recommend going to Kailua and having breakfast at Cinnamon's.  You can easily spend the day in Kailua and Lanikai so try to make a day of it.  Have some breakfast, go kayaking, hike the pillbox, and lounge on the beach.

Lanikai Pillbox Hike

One nice thing about visitors - no matter where you live - is that they encourage you to do "touristy things" or provide you with the motivation to do things you've "been meaning to do."  This week I have two friends in town from Chicago and over the weekend we hiked to the Lanikai Pillboxes.  I had been meaning to do this hike for a while and a number of people recommended it to me, but for some reason I just never made it up there.

Getting there wasn't difficult per se, but it wasn't easy, either.  From Waikiki, it only takes maybe 30 minutes to get here (if you take the Pali Hwy).  First of all, I discovered that everyone knows where the start to the trail head is, but no one can tell you how to get there.  When I asked directions, I was told multiple times, "it's next to the golf course."  Have you ever seen a golf course!?  It's not like, "oh, it's across from McDonald's."  Golf courses are huge and there are a lot of places that can be "across" from a golf course.  So let me explain in very simple terms how to get to the Lanikai Pillbox hike:  From the highway (rt 61) heading into Kailua, bear right when you get to the Shell Gas Station (on your left) onto Kailua road.  Note: Kailua road actually goes straight AND right.  You want to go right.  Continue along Kailua road until you come to a traffic light.  Turn left at the traffic light.  You are still on Kailua road.  Go to the end of the road and turn right onto Kalaheo Road.  You are now headed into the Lanikai Loop (where Mokolua Dr becomes Alapapa Rd).  At your first right on Alapapa Road, turn right onto Kaelepulu Dr.  Park anywhere along that road and the trail head entrance is directly across from the entrance to the Mid-Pacific Country Club parking lot.

The short hike up to the pillboxes (also known as Lanikai bunkers) on Ka'iwa Ridge offers one of the most breathtaking views of the windward side of the island. The hike itself is pretty easy.  It's uphill and there are loose rocks, but the view is definitely worth the hike.  The first part of the hike is steep and very slippery due to the dry dusty ground. There is nothing to hold onto other than tall grass and a few bushes, so it's probably a good idea to wear hiking shoes or be prepared to end up on your bum a couple of times on your way down. There is no shade on this hike until you reach the pillboxes so make sure to bring some water.  It took maybe 45 minutes to get to the top and about the same to get down.  I did not see too many older people on this hike, but it is not nearly as steep as Diamond Head or some of the more difficult (but popular) hikes in Honolulu.  I highly recommend this hike if you have a day to spend in Kailua/Lanikai.

Olomana Golf Links

Olomana Golf Links is a pleasant Windward Oahu golf course located on the other side of the Koolau mountain range from downtown Honolulu and is the quintessential local golf course.  What I mean by that is that it's kind of a hidden course far enough away from Honolulu that you won't find any tourists here.  Also, it's not the most talked about course so the tourists typically don't hear about it.  For a Saturday afternoon, there was hardly anyone there, and they were all locals.  Although relatively short for a par-72 layout (5,800 yrds from the white tees), water hazards appear on each hole on the front nine. The back nine starts out with a combination of hilly par-4 and par-3 holes at the 10th through the 13th holes. The prevailing trades play a major factor in scoring well while the well-kept greens make for consistent rolls, a nice touch for any course.

Located closer to the Windward shore than to the towering Ko'olau range where mountain-induced showers can build up quickly, Olomana's typically sunny weather makes this course a reliable option any day of the year.  The views are pretty amazing as well, with the mountains in the distance and rolling fairways throughout the back nine.  It was not the most difficult course I've played here, but it was also not the most challenging.  It also was not the prettiest, but it was certainly in the top 3 or 4.  Overall it was a fun course that made the day enjoyable.  I think I lost one or two balls, but never wanted to rip my hair out. Had I not putted like it was the first time I ever played golf I would have easily shot in the 80s.  Unfortunately, I spent the entire day seemingly trying to figure out how to use a putter.

Pricing Information: (you can make tee-times here)

KAMA`AINA SPECIALS

• Seniors local residents 55 and over $35 weekdays not on holidays
• Afternoon Kama`aina Specials after 12:30pm. Weekday $37/Weekends $45 BOOK ONLINE
• Birthday Special - Play free on your birthday when you bring 3 playing partners. Proof of birthday required.
• GROUP RATES 12 or more $41 Weekday/$49 Weekend

VISITOR SPECIALS

• $95 18 Holes w/cart, $80 2nd visit (save $15), $65 each additional visit (save $30) with card after first visit
• VISITOR TWILIGHT After 1:30 pm $80 Weekday/Weekend
• VISITOR GROUP RATES 8 or more golfers $65 Weekday/Weekend

Hawaii Kai Golf Course

Playing golf in Hawaii is a pretty great experience.  There are not too many course I have played where you have a volcano in the background while overlooking the ocean.  Yes, I know there are gorgeous courses around the world, but I imagine that they are pretty exclusive.  The courses in Hawaii are great because they are, largely, accessible to the public.

That being said, I was not a tremendous fan of the Hawaii Kai golf course.  Located at 8902 Kalanianaole Highway Honolulu, HI 96825-2821 - map here), it is basically across the street from Sandy's Beach Park and the Makapu'u Lighthouse Trail.  From the outside it looks like the perfect place to play.  Koko Head Crater and the pacific ocean are both visible from almost every hole of the Championship Course (there is also a par 3 executive course).  Driving in, though, the parking lot looks like it hasn't been paved in about 30 years.  Some of the fairways and greens look well cared for, but others look like they haven't watered anything in months.  There are lots of patches of dead and brown grass.  The greens were probably the most disappointing part of the entire course.  The greens were in pretty terrible shape.  They had a lot of unrepaired ball marks and there were patches completely missing in certain areas.  One of the tee boxes wasn't even grass.  They had the carpet that you'd see on a driving range.

Those were the negatives.  On the positive side, the course is beautifully laid out, especially the surrounding scenery.  It was also not tremendously difficult.  It was nothing like Luana Hills, for example.  I didn't lose a single golf ball all day (a real feat for me).  Also, at $48/person (Kama'aina rate, including cart), it was a pretty decent deal.  There were a few times we looked around to just enjoy the surrounding views of the ocean and/or mountains.

Getting there is pretty easy, too. Take H1 East which leads to Kalanianaole Highway (Route 72). Continue on, passing Hanauma Bay, Halona Blowhole and Sandy Beach on your right. About a mile past Sandy Beach you will see a two-story building, the Hawaii Kai Club House on your left. A sign indicates the entrance to the golf course.

China Walls

China Walls is another name for an area overlooking Portluck Point on the Southeastern point of O'ahu.  As you're driving toward Hanauma Bay, Sandy's Beach, and Dragon's Nostrils, you'll pass Hawai'i Kai, a fairly affluent area of Honolulu.  When you get to the Foodland, turn right on Lunalilio Rd and then turn right on Portluck Rd.  Park anywhere around there and walk down the hill.  You'll see people hanging down on the rocks/cliff.  This place has one of the best views in the city for sunset and most travel books don't even talk about it.  The sun sets right over Diamond Head.  You won't see signs for it, either, but locals know it as a great place for surfing and cliff jumping.

This is not a beach.  It is just a cliff wall where you can jump into the water, watch surfers, and watch the sunset. China Walls is infamous both for its breathtaking beauty as well as treacherous waters. Due to the numerous fatalities that have taken place over the years, China Walls has gained the reputation of being unpredictable and deadly.  If you hit this spot during the week you’ll probably luck out and find it empty. Stay away during the weekends, it gets crowded.  The locals here are extremely friendly, even if some of them look young and rough, and they love to talk about this place.  Don’t be shy about striking up a conversation with anyone you see there.

When I first moved here, I came here with a few friends and it was a cool place to hang out for a little while.  You wouldn't make this a day activity, but it's something to do if you're in the Hawai'i Kai area for dinner (Roy's - the famous restaurant by James Beard award winner Roy Yamaguchi - is located here) or something.  It's also a good place to stop on your way back from East O'ahu.

Maunawili Falls Trail

There are dozens of hiking trails on O'ahu and this weekend I decided to try a new one.  I had heard that Maunawili Falls was really pretty and that there was a waterfall and swimming hole at the end, which made it all the more enticing.  After my hot and humid disaster at Makapu'u with no water, I thought being able to take a swim afterwards would be nice.

There's Not Always Stairs...

Maunawili Falls Trail is a good beginners trail.  It is not difficult, but still provides challenging areas.  The first quarter (1/4) mile of the one and a half (1 1/2)-mile of the trail is easy.  It's relatively flat and dry and there aren't any obstacles.  There were a few families that had small kids with them who seemed to be having a good time and not struggling. I would say that you don't have to be in great shape to hike it, but make no mistake, after the first quarter mile there will be a few times along the way where you'll be huffing and puffing.  There were several young people on the trail that we could hear breathing heavily after walking up some of the steeper parts of the trail.  However, along our way we also saw several...let's call them "senior citizens" (I don't want to say an age for fear of angry comments from people I just labeled "old")...hiking it.  They were moving slowly, for sure, but they weren't holding anyone up and were doing fine.  There are also plenty of rocks to sit on if you were to get tired for some reason.

The most challenging aspect of the trail is probably that it gets VERY muddy even when it hasn't rained for a few days.  If it has been raining, expect tremendous amounts of mud.  I cannot emphasize enough that you should not wear nice shoes.  You should wear shoes you're okay throwing away.  I actually highly recommend water shoes (you'll read about "why" shortly).  There are several parts of the trail where you have no choice but to wade through mud.  You WILL get dirty on this hike.  The toughest part of the trail is that certain parts can be very slippery.  You cross at least three small streams on the way to the falls and you have two choices.  Risk breaking your neck by tip-toeing and balancing on the slippery rocks to cross or just walk through the stream.  Do yourself a favor: just walk through.  By the end of the hike you won't care anyway.  We got this advice before going and I didn't believe it.  Once you come to the first major stream though, you quickly realize that it's better to just say, "oh screw it."  It's very liberating, actually.

View From the Trail

The trail goes through a rainforest so the foliage is really amazing.  Also, there are phenomenal views of the Ko'olaus Mountains.  Although most of the trail runs through thick forest, there are a few points along the way where it opens up and provides some great pictures (see above).  Most of the trail goes uphill, too so you also get a lot of views of the forest below.  After you hike the mile and a half, the trail opens up to a small, but pretty, waterfall and surrounding swimming hole.  Depending on when you go, there will be a few people already there swimming and jumping off the rocks.

Most people jump from the rocks where the waterfall is.  I know what you're thinking: it doesn't look that high.  Truth be told, it's not.  But when you're standing up there, it sure looks A LOT higher.  It's also unnerving because the water is murky.  It's impossible to see anything and since you have to climb over rocks to get in the pool in the first place, you never really know if rocks might be looming under the water.  Well, after a few people jumped, I was pretty convinced I was not going to crack my head open and I jumped.  Then I was quickly put to shame when two guys (clearly military...lots of military guys here) climbed up the sides of the mountain to what was, in my opinion, easily 75 feet.  They jumped from way up there (out of the picture) and into the pool below.  I asked them and they said they went pretty far down in the water and still didn't feel anything.  So my guess is the swimming hole is at least 15 feet deep. That doesn't mean I'm trying it anytime soon.  It still requires accuracy to not hit the rocks on the edges of the hole.

Now, lest I get sued for not giving fair warning, let me talk about Leptospirosis.  This is a rare, but severe and contagious bacterial infection.  Leptospirosis is often referred to as swamp fever or mud fever.  The organism enters the body when mucous membranes or broken skin come in contact with contaminated environmental sources. These environmental sources are often swamps and rivers.  According to e-medicine, recreational activities that present risk include traveling to tropical areas, canoeing, hiking, kayaking, fishing, windsurfing, swimming, waterskiing, wading, riding trail-bikes through puddles, white-water rafting, and other outdoor sports played in contaminated water.  Basically, it is a bacteria found in animal pee that travels down stream and festers in mostly still water.  There are signs all over the falls warning people that swimming may lead to leptospirosis.  Well, as far as I can tell, I am still healthy and haven't had any problems. I'm also not an idiot and didn't jump in the swimming hole and starting drinking the water.

Getting to Maunawili Falls is MUCH easier than people would have you believe (as with any directions here).  The island of O'ahu is not that big.  You can drive the entire circumference of the island in a few hours.  To get from one side to the other takes about an hour (maybe a little more depending on traffic).  If you ask people, though, you'd think the Falls are on a different planet.  Hawaiians think a 30 minute drive is too far to go.  Well, I asked someone how to get to Maunawili Falls and after they finished giving me directions, I was convinced I would never get there.  It's easy.

From Waikiki, jump on the H-1 going West. Take the Pali Highway heading toward Kailua.  You'll go maybe 6 miles or so as you go through the mountains.  You'll go through 2 tunnels and then turn right at the third stop light (Auloa Street).  Keep left on Maunawili Road (the road sort of forks) and go through the subdivision.  At the end of Maunawili Road turn right (you have no choice) on Keewina Street and park on the street.

Halona Beach and Blowhole

Halona Blowhole

The Halona Blowhole is a well-known and often visited tourist spot on Oahu's south shore, right next to Sandy's Beach and on the way to Makapu'u and Dragon's Nostrils along Hwy 72. A blowhole is a lava tube under the water and at the perfect height for waves to be driven into it.  The water is compressed as the lava tube becomes smaller and smaller causing the pressure to increase forcing a stream of water to shoot up to thirty-feet into the air.  It's always a good idea to not stick your head directly over the blowhole, which I did at Dragon's Nostrils.  Turns out it is really loud and sounds like the water will take your head off.

There is a scenic point with a big sign that says, "Halona Blowhole Scenic Point."  You can't miss it, particularly with the ass load of rental cars parked in the parking lot.  The scenic point is a couple hundred feet above the ocean and looks down onto Halona Beach, the blowhole, and Sandy's Beach.  As you look down on Halona Beach, you can see a lot of locals playing in the violent waves below.  Known as "The Peering Place," Halona Beach is really more of a cove and is situated to the right of the blowhole. The rocky cove has a small sandy beach and crowded water. This beach is probably best known as the site of the famous love scene between Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr in the 1953 movie, From Here to Eternity.  If you've ever seen 50 First Dates with Drew Barrymore and Adam Sandler, this is the spot where they first kiss.

View from the Scenic Point

You should also know that the beach has no facilities, no lifeguards, and you have to climb down some steep rocks to get there.  However, once you go down, you can climb on the rocks and mountains that are adjacent to the beach and look out over the water.  If the tide is up, these waves crash violently into the rocks and splash water a good 20-30 feet in the air.  It makes for some cool pictures.  If you're pressed for time on your way to seeing and doing other things, it's not necessary to climb down to the beach and up the other side.  However, if you're just having a leisurely day, then I say give it a try.

Halona Beach Cove From the Rocks Next to the Beach

Haole in Hawaii

Before I moved to Hawaii, I had a professor tell me how lucky I was to be moving to a place with so much racial and ethnic diversity.  He told me all about how President Obama's book, Dreams From My Father, painted a pleasant image of racial relations in Hawaii.  The book is not the only place Obama praised race relations in Hawaii.  He was also lauded for his speech, A More Perfect Union, which among other things, mentioned the way Hawaii's diverse population and racial harmony could serve as an example to guide the rest of America.  However, I saw an article today that exposes the notion of Hawaiian racial harmony as not exactly accurate...at least not if you're white.  Have I seen crotchety old asian women give me dirty looks on my commute to work?  Sure.  But when this happens I don't automatically assume they are racist.  I'm not Jesse Jackson.

If you've been watching Hawaii Five-0, then you've undoubtedly heard the word "Haole" (pronounced: HOW - LEE).  It means "white person."  Many Hawaiian locals in the show use it to refer to Steve McGarrett or his partner Danno in a derogatory or demeaning way.  It is not necessarily an insult, though.  It can also be used matter-of-factly.  For example, many people refer to Colt Brennan - the (white) University of Hawaii quarterback who led the Warriors to an undefeated season in 2007 - as "everyone's favorite haole."

More often than not, though, it's derogatory.  This became all too apparent to me this weekend when I learned a new phrase - "HTW."  It is uttered by non-white people (even white-wash Asians who grew up on the mainland but like to pretend they're locals) and means "Haole, That's Why."  You can hear it said if a white person does something inconsistent with Hawaiian culture.  For example, "Why doesn't she eat Spam?" HTW.  "Why doesn't he wear an Aloha (Hawaiian) shirt?" HTW.  "Why is he tall?"  HTW.

Now, I always shrug off suggestions of underlying racism, both when asserted by my minority friends back home and when people here claim haoles are treated differently.  If someone gives me a dirty look because I'm white...well...I have made enough racist jokes that I probably deserve it.  Such is life.  This article suggested, however, that haole-based racism may actually be a legitimate problem in Hawaii (insert minority roommate's comment: "wait, you're telling me racism in America is a problem? I'm shocked!").  The 9th Circuit Court of Appeals (federal court with appellate jurisdiction over Hawaii, Alaska, California, Nevada, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, and Washington) last week rejected a challenge to the Kamehameha Schools admissions practice that gives preferential treatment to native Hawaiians.  The lawsuit apparently includes a heated debate over whether four non-Hawaiian students would be subject to racial attacks if their identities were revealed.


Judges Alex Kozinski and Stephen Reinhardt wrote strongly worded dissents, referring to "Kill Haole Day" at Hawaii's schools and arguing that the four non-Hawaiian students would be endangered in a "racially charged environment."  What? Kill Haole Day? Surely this is just some silly myth.  Well, it turns out that the last day of school before summer is annually known as Kill Haole Day.  This is not to be confused with Kick a Ginger Day (which, as we all know, is just plain old good fun!).  Local school kids in Hawaii will harass and sometimes beat up on mainland young white kids. Tourists don't exactly get exposed to this part of the culture when they visit, but local people know all about it. It isn't discussed openly or written about in newspapers, but it has been part of island practice among some of the young people for decades, apparently.


From my perspective, I have never experienced haole-based racism...and I have some pretty embarrassing proof that such claims may be overblown.  As I mentioned earlier, I went to Sandy's Beach this weekend.  When it comes to parking, you have two choices: the paved parking lot or the grass/sand in front of the beach.  There is basically a big field in front of the beach that is preceded by a strip of sand maybe 5-6 feet wide.  Well, I pull up over the sand, park the car, and go to the beach.  No problem.  We come back from the beach, get in the car and prepare to leave.  I drive over the grass and am ready to pull out on the narrow, one-lane road in front of the beach, but there is a lot of traffic.  So everyone has to go slowly and take their time.  I, unfortunately, happened to stop right on the strip of sand.  I didn't think anything of it.  Finally, no cars were coming, so I gradually ease out...oh wait...no...the wheels start spinning but I go NOWHERE.  The following conversation took place in the car:


Me: uh oh, I think we're stuck
Passenger:  What?
Me: Stuck in the sand
Passenger: Just give it more gas.  
Me: Ok


Nothing Happens.  


Passenger: Try going in reverse  
Me: Ok...


Yep, goin' nowhere


Passenger: Haha, lol!
Me:  That's not helpful...

Notice the position of the cars...these are where the locals park

Now, I don't have pictures of this cluster f*ck, so I will try to be as descriptive as possible (you can sort of see the layout from this picture).  The road I was trying to turn on runs parallel to the beach (right behind the cars on the left side of the picture here).  The field is directly behind that. To exit the park, you're driving toward the beach and turn right onto the road.  All the local boys are parked perpendicular to the road/beach/field.  As I'm looking out the front windshield, I can see the beach and the entire row of about 15 cars/trucks filled with 4-5 local boys each who have now taken notice of my nightmare what is going on.  I am still spinning the wheels in a futile effort to go somewhere.  They ALL start yelling different instructions at me in an effort to help.  Of course, all the instructions contradict each other.  Some are telling me to give it more gas.  Some say turn the wheel.  Some say go in reverse.  Some just point in six different directions.  After a few minutes, I exit the vehicle to see what my options might be. HA!  The wheels were BURIED in the sand.  Yep, not going anywhere.

Example of a Local Boy

Well, wouldn't ya know it...after another minute of watching this haole idiot screw around with his car, a SWARM of these guys walks up to us.  They assess the situation and say, "ah brah, you're buried."  Ya think!?  A group of them have now boxed me out of the situation completely and discuss among themselves how to get the car out.  Within what seemed like an hour a minute or so, one guy goes over to his truck and pulls out some type of strap.  Now 3 or 4 guys are laying on the ground looking under the bumper screaming at each other, "hook it there!;" "no, it'll pull the bumper, brah, you gotta hook it there;" "nah brah, wrap it around here!"  


I'm just standing silently on the side thinking: sure guys, let me know if I can help.  After a few minutes, my truck is hooked up to a bigger truck.  Now EVERYONE is watching in amusement - including the dozen-or-so line of cars that cannot pass on the road because the bigger truck is blocking it as we are hood to hood.  He pulls me out pretty quickly and with my bumper still intact, I am on my merry way with NO intention of showing my face at Sandy's Beach Park ever again.  So while they all got a good laugh/story at the haole's expense, I certainly don't think I'd classify them as anything but friendly/helpful guys.


So I suppose I'd have to say that my assessment of Hawaii is a little different than Judge Kozinski's.