Sandbar Kaneohe

Kāneʻohe Bay is the largest sheltered body of water in the main Hawaiian Islands. This reef-dominated bay constitutes a significant scenic and recreational feature along the windward (northeast) coast of the Island of Oʻahu. The Bay is approximately 8 mi long and 2.7 mi broad, with a mouth opening of about 4.6 mi and maximum depth of 40 ft in the dredged channel. Features unique in the main Hawaiian Islands include one of only two barrier reefs (the other being the 27 mile barrier reef of Molokaʻi island) and extensive development of shoaling coral reefs within a large lagoon.

Prior to last weekend I had never actually been to the bay.  I've played golf over near Kaneohe and the Valley of the Temples is over there, but I had heard the bay is gorgeous.  Anyway, last week the group of people I met at the pro bowl decided to go sailing and invited me to tag along.  They have a 43-foot sailboat that they take out every once in a while and anchor it out at the sandbar in the middle of the bay.  The sandbar is also something I had heard about but had never seen.  

The Kaneohe Sandbar, also known as Ahu o Laka, is a popular picnicking spot among local Oahu residents, particularly among those who have a boat or access to a boat or kayak. It’s the only sandbar of this kind in Hawaii. During low tide, it emerges and forms a shallow and temporary land. During high tide, the water is about hip-deep and deeper towards the edges of the sandbar. People come here to picnic, swim, snorkel, dive, play ball games, or to just relax.  The water is calm and clear and the views are amazing. While you're out on the water you can see the entire Kaneohe Bay from an ocean vantage point, the Koolau Mountains and the small offshore islands of Chinaman’s Hat, Coconut Island and Kekepa (Turtleback Island).

So while we were out there, we had snacks and booze and sun.  What more could you possibly ask for?  We also threw the football and frisbee around just to entertain ourselves.  The real fun came at the end of the day, though.  I suppose everyone just got so caught up in the fun that no one actually seemed to notice the tide change.  Check the tide table before heading out to the sandbar so you know in advance if it’s high or low tide. The activities that you can do on the sandbar vary slightly during these different ocean conditions. You can take out your chairs and put them on the sandbar only during low tide, for example.  Well, your boat can also get stuck in the sand if the tide goes from high to low and you're not paying attention.  This happened to us.  To make a long story short, everyone had to get off the boat and push it out of the sand.  Initially that wasn't enough.  We had to put the sails up, start the motor, and THEN push.  It was all pretty hilarious.  It looked like a Chinese fire drill with about 8 people jumping on and off the boat to get this thing un-stuck.

Overall, it was a fun day.  We are actually going back this weekend!

Hiking to Secret Falls - Kaua'i

As I wrote about earlier, I went to Kaua'i recently for a short trip of hiking, coffee drinking, and kayaking.  It was the second time I had traveled to the northernmost Hawaiian island and it was also the best visit.  The highlight was by far kayaking the Wailua River followed by a hike to Secret Falls.

This 5 hour trip starts with a Kayak trip up the Wailua river, through tropical jungle. Several miles up the river you paddle in to shore, secure your Kayak then hike inland through a tropical rainforest to Secret Falls, a 100 foot waterfall that you can swim beneath. Along the trail you will pass other smaller, but even more beautiful falls at hidden places. While you can rent a Kayak and do this trip without a guide, it is probably easier to make this part of a guided hike/trip - that way you don't have to worry about the Kayak when you leave it tied up during the hike.

Our guide was incredibly friendly and knowledgeable, which made it all the more entertaining.  He told us about all the different fauna along the way.  Of course I forget most of what he told us, and for all I know he could have lied about most of it anyway.  Nonetheless, it was interesting while we were there.  The hike itself was along a well-worn path through fairly thick rainforest.  At the end of the mile-long hiking trail, the path opens up to the waterfall.  We brought lunch, ate, and then went swimming underneath the waterfall.  Yes, I was worried about leptospirosis, but I quickly got over that when I jumped in and my testicles shriveled up to the size of raisins.  The water was unbelievably FREEZING.  It was still fun, though.  Definitely one of my favorite hiking trips I've done here.

Kayaking the Wailua River - Kaua'i

This weekend I went to Kaua'i.  Kaua'i is the northernmost island of the Hawaiian Islands and is where many movies - Raiders of the Lost Ark, Jurassic Park, etc. - were filmed.  I've been to Kaua'i before and hiked the Na Pali Coast, but didn't really think there was much appeal to the island itself.  Sure, there is pretty scenery, but we have pretty scenery on O'ahu, so why would I need to go somewhere else?  I still have that opinion, but this weekend we did something pretty cool.  We kayaked the Wailua River en route to hiking to the "secret falls."

Wailua River is a long, slowly meadering river that starts at the Wai'ale'ale Crater and is fed by several tributaries on the way to the ocean. This is the only navigable river in all of Hawaii.  Several forks in the river lead to waterfalls and can be easily explored by kayak.  We ended up going with a guide so we didn't have to worry about getting lost or leaving the kayaks unattended.  We found a great deal with Kayak Wailua for $42 per person with the kayak rental, guide, tax, and gratuity included.  You need to call to make a reservation, and they were really helpful with getting us set up.  I recommend getting a reservation for noon as that is the least crowded time.  Our group was only 6 people and when we got to the waterfall, there was hardly anyone around.  We landed on the island at 6:30am and were able to call and make our noon reservation for the same day.

Anyway, when we landed, we still had about 5 hours before we had to show up for the kayaking tour.  So we killed some time at the Kaua'i Coffee Company, checked into our hotel (more on that later), and got some breakfast at an awesome diner in town.  When we showed up at the Kayak place, they gave us dry bags for all our belongings as well as a cooler so we could bring our own lunch to picnic at the waterfall.  The kayak portion of the trip is 2.5 miles each way, followed by a 1 mile hike to the waterfall.  The river is really calm and peaceful and was definitely my favorite part of our trip as well as my favorite thing to do on Kaua'i.  It was just a lot of fun and really relaxing (even if kayaking does require some exertion).  It was definitely easier than kayaking to the mokolua islands in lanikai.

On the river itself, kayakers are given their own "lane" on the right side of the river. To see the Secret Falls, take the right fork in the river, about 35 minutes from the mouth. A few minutes later you come to an island. Dock on the right side and follow the trail to this secluded waterfall.  If you're interested in doing the guided tour, which I highly recommend, I suggest going with "Kayak Wailua:"

4565 Haleilio Road
KAPAA, HI 96746
(808) 822-3388

Kayaking in Lanikai

As I mentioned in my "Lanikai and Laird Hamilton" post, there are two Mokulua Islands about a mile off the shore of Lanikai and Kailua.  It cannot be overstated enough how Lanikai is a picturesque beach that seems like it was plucked right from a postcard.  Crystal clear water, white sand beach, two islands offshore, gorgeous houses along the beach, and a mountain range in the background.  While I recognize that I have not been to too many beaches here, Lanikai is so far my favorite.  It definitely beats the crowds (and dirtiness) of tourists in Waikiki.  There is a reason Oahu's Kailua Beach and Lanikai Beach have been voted best in the U.S. for swimming, walking, kayaking, windsurfing, boogie boarding, paddling, snorkeling and a number of other water sports.

The Mokulua Islands are two bird sanctuaries now, but the one of the left also has a beach that is littered with kayakers and beach-goers who pack lunches and just hang out.  This weekend I decided to try kayaking out to the islands to see what they were all about.  To get to Kailua Beach Park is fairly simple.  If you're leaving from Waikiki, you simply take the H-1 (Interstate) Highway to the Pali Highway.  Stay straight on the Pali for 9 miles until you get into the town of Kailua.  The road eventually forks, but stay straight (left) on Kailua Road.  You'll pass Kailua Square (Aikahi Park) Shopping Center and Macy's.  Keep going all the way to the end of the road until you can only turn left or right. Turn right onto Kalaheo Rd. You'll pass some kayak stands on the right and the Kailua Beach Park parking lot will be on your left.  Keep going straight and you'll run right into Lanikai in about 2 minutes.  There is no parking lot in Lanikai, but you can park your car anywhere you find a spot.  Everyone just parks along the side of the road and you'll know you're in Lanikai when you start seeing all the cars parked along the road.

  

This weekend I decided to kayak out to the Mokulua Islands.  I did not have any recommendations for my first time, so as I get more experience, I'm sure I will update my thoughts.  A protective barrier reef allows for easier paddling and a chance to kayak from Kailua Beach to the Mokulua Islands, Flat Island and Lanikai Beach. When you kayak in this area, you go through sea turtle feeding grounds, sea bird sanctuaries and living coral reef, all with the majestic backdrop of the Kololau Mountains. Be prepared to see the native Hawaiian Green sea turtle, or Honu, tropical fish and other marine life in their natural habitat.  We actually saw a sea turtle and it was pretty awesome. 

  

I have been to Lanikai a couple times prior to this weekend and there is nowhere to actually rent kayaks in Lanikai.  So if you think you might want to kayak, plan ahead.  You have to rent kayaks, windsurf boards, etc. from Kailua, which is the beach park right before you get to Lanikai.  Along the side of Kalaheo Rd you'll see a bunch of trucks with dozens of kayaks.  That's the only spot you can rent them near the beach.  These trucks are actually the satellite operation for several shops in downtown Kailua.  Renting a tandem kayak for half a day (4 hours) will cost $50-55 (total for 2 people).  Renting for a full day is $65-70. ALWAYS ask for the Kama'aina Discount, though!  It reduces the price by about $10.  Also, they are not sticklers about time, so always get the half-day.  They DO NOT care if you come back in 5 or 6 hours.  This goes for all rentals - surfboards, kayaks, etc.  

One thing you should know is that these truck vendors CANNOT accept cash.  It is a violation of park ordinances to accept cash in the beach park.  If you want to pay cash, you'll have to go back into town to the actual shops, which is annoying.  For people wary of giving your credit card number to guys on the side of the road, though, this may be worth the security.  Know this, though: some people operate illegally.  There are guys who accept cash.  If someone is willing to accept cash, then they are not affiliated with any of the shops in town and are actually despised by the legitimate businesses. However, their kayaks still float.  Further, knowing that they operate illegally is to your advantage.  They will still try to charge you the same rate as the legitimate businesses, but you have all the leverage if you know the rules.  You can easily talk them down to $30 or $40 depending on how confident you are.  No matter who you rent from, they'll help you tie it to your car.  

A picture from the island...this is how far you'll kayak

If you don't want to do this on your own, you can always get ripped off  try a guided tour.  For $95 (each; $190 for 2 people), you a get a 4-hour "eco-tour."  This means you follow someone through the turtle feeding grounds and have them explain what you're looking at.  The tours usually include some kind of snack and 2 hours on the beach.  If my stellar recommendation has you interested, I've heard that Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks are a good bet.  You can also try Hawaiian Water Sports.
   

Now that you've tied the kayak to your car, drive to Lanikai.  Don't try to Kayak from Kailua Beach to the Mokulua Islands.  It's far and not worth the added hassle.  Drive all the way through Lanikai.  Lanikai is a giant loop.  As you get into the town, it goes off the right.  Drive until it comes back around and park right there.  You'll see the beach access point.  This is the shortest distance to the Islands.  Now, the two islands don't seem too far offshore.  Originally, I thought even an average swimmer could easily swim the distance.  I was wrong.  When you're in the middle of the water and have been paddling for a half an hour, you realize that those islands feel like their the disappearing Island in Lost.  It just keeps moving further away.


When you finally make it, the islands create a weird tidal shift.  Waves some in from both sides of the beach and converge to make for a tricky landing.  If you're not careful, you could tip over.  This isn't disastrous as the water is knee-deep.  It's just embarrassing because the beach is filled with people who kayaked over and they're undoubtedly judging you as both an amateur and a tourist.  The trick is to know that the waves are there and just be prepared to paddle through them.  Pack a lunch.  It is pretty cool to see everyone on the island just hanging out.  Some guys were playing horseshoes and drinking beer when we showed up.  Other people had lunches and were lounging on towels.  Still others were snorkeling.  People brought their kids (no dogs are allowed on the island).

While the island is definitely an adventure and off the beaten path a little, it's not that relaxing.  The beach is not that big and it feels crowded because of its size.  There were maybe 50 people on the entire island, but with everyone so close together, it felt like more.  If you don't really care about kayaking and you're really just in the mood for a quiet, relaxing lunch on the beach, skip the hassle of getting to the island and just sit and enjoy Lanikai.  There is nothing to see on the island so the real appeal is just saying you did it (which, admittedly, is cool).

Here’s what to know before you go:

• You don’t need to be super fit to kayak Kailua Bay, but you do need to be in relatively good shape and have the ability to swim without a personal flotation device. Note that PFDs were provided.  We didn't wear them.

• You must 13 or older.

• If you take one of the guided tours, the company will provide transportation to and from Waikiki hotels. You should drive your own rental car, though.

• Snorkel equipment is provided if you ask.  It's free.

• Wear sunscreen!

• Wear sunglasses.

• Wear a hat or visor.

• Bring a waterproof camera.

• Wear your bathing suit

• Don't bother taking a guided tour.  Rent your own kayak and relax and have fun.